Day 1 & 2. Friday September 2nd and Saturday September 3rd 2005.
After a delay of 3 hours we left Amsterdam with Martinair to Vancouver. We flew over Greenland where glaciers, snowcap mountains and icebergs where clearly visible. We stayed for the night in Vancouver in a Holliday Inn near the airport.
After a good night rest we picked up the RV at Cruise Canada and drove to Tsawassan for the ferry to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. Unfortunately the ferry of half past two was cancelled, so we had to wait until half past five for the next one. After a 2 hours drive with the ferry we arrived just before sunset on the campground in Nanaimo. Later that evening we've met our Orca-Live internet friends Osmia, Beryl and Ellen.
Day 3 Sunday September 4th
We woke up early this morning and left Nanaimo and headed for Campbell River. We had plans to go whale watching with Robson Bight Charters tomorrow, but when we arrived in Sayward the office was closed and a sign told us that the next available trip was at Wednesday September 7th. So we started our RV and drove further north to Telegraph Cove. In Telegraph Cove we’ve ran into Paul Spong. It was great to meet him and we’ve had a nice chat at the harbour. He was waiting for a group of guests, which he had to bring to Hanson Island. Paul invited us to come over to Orcalab, if we could get a ride. If that wouldn’t work we could call him, so he could work something out. Five years ago we’ve made some friends in TC, They stayed on the campground all summer and have a boat in the harbour which they used for fishing. When we arrived on the campground we’ve met Ron and Eve Little again. They were still there. Unfortunately there boat was already out of the water and the where preparing to go home. Well tomorrow we go out whale watching with Stubbs…
Day 4 Monday September 5th
Today we went out whale watching on the Lukwa. With my cell phone I checked the comments of OL to find out if there where any whales in the area. OL reported that there where Transients in Johnstone Strait and the Resident groups (A8s, A11s, A30s and I15s) where east of the Robson Bight. That looks promising. From Telegraph we headed east and soon we spotted the Transients. The group consist of one male and two females. We lost the male and female very quickly and Wayne, the captain of the Lukwa, decided to follow the other female. She was in a hurry and headed west with a speed of 9 knots to Weynton Passage. She was also calling and mimicking the distinctive call of the I15s. We followed the whale for a while and suddenly she splashed her tail ones and breached directly after that. Then she headed west again with high speed. Onboard of the Lukwa we thought the whale was T2. At Weynton Passage we left the whale and we went north through Weynton Passage into Blackfish Sound. We saw no more whales that day. Back on the campground in Telegraph we saw a black bear, stalking a deer. The pictures of the blackbear are screenshots of the videofilm. Transient T2
Day 5 Tuesday September 6th
This day we woke up with two bold eagles, up in a tree on the campground in Telegraph Cove. It is a wonderful sunny day, with a totally blue sky. Today we went whale watching with Bill and Donna onboard of the Naiad. On our way to the Robson Bight I saw a black bear on the beach between Port MacNeil and Alder Bay. Before we went to the whales we’ve had to pick up Tomoko from Cracroft Point. She is going back to Japan after a 2 month stay at Orcalab. Paul also came by to deliver her luggage and say hi from Hanson Island.
We saw a lot of whales today. There were the A30s and I15s, including I41 with his collapsed dorsal fin and the G17s who visiting Johnstone Strait for the first time this year. The different families stayed on their own and didn’t mingle with each other. There was a lot activity going on. A84 (A50 Clio’s baby) did a lot of breaching and we saw A39 (Pointer) tail slapping.
It was an amazing day. Suddenly some Pacific white sided dolphins show up. With the A11s, and A8s returning from the east and the A12s and I11s coming in from Blackney Pass, the total number of whales were approximately up to 60 individuals.
When we were back in Port MacNeil, we took the ferry to Malcolm Island and camped at Bere Point.
Day 6. Wednesday September 7th
This morning I woke up early at 6 o’clock. I’ve opened my window to listen to the peaceful sound of the Queen Charlotte Strait. Suddenly I heard a single wolf howling! The call came from the mainland across the Strait. We jumped out of bed and sat down on the beach. We experienced a magnificent sunrise with a howling wolf. He or she howled three times just before sunrise. This was our first time that we’ve heard this. Awesome. After breakfast we’ve started a hike on the “Beautiful Bay Trail”. It was a beautiful walk through the forest. Halfway we went down to the beach and hiked back over the beach. At Bere Point there is also a rubbing beach where the whales occasionally come for a rub. This time there were no orcas present, but we saw two harbour porpoises swam by.
In the afternoon we took the ferry back to Port McNeil and camped on the Alder Bay campsite. We’ve had dinner in Port McNeil and through the restaurant window we spotted a black bear scanning the beach.
Day 7 Thursday September 8th
Today starts with a little rain and some fog over Johnstone Strait. We left the Alder Bay Campsite and headed for Zeballos. From highway 19 we had to go over a 40 kilometer logging road. At some point we saw a black bear crossing the road. We left the clouds and rain behind us and at the time we reached Zeballos the sun was shining abundantly. We came to Zeballos to find an opportunity to go see some sea otters. So we’ve rented a water taxi which took us into the Esperanza Inlet. On our way near Centre Island in the Esperanza Inlet we saw 2 humpback whales: a mother with her calf. They where slapping with their pectoral fins and the baby breaches more then ten times. Also mom breached one time. This was truly amazing.
We left the whales and went further down to Nuchalitz Provincial Park. There was a strong wind blowing from the Ocean so we search for the sea otters under the lee of the islands. We’ve spotted five otters. They where spread out and feeding. They dove to the bottom of the Ocean and when they came up they had something to eat. Maybe a sea urchin or some clamps. It was lovely to see them eating, laying on their back in the water.
On our way back we ran into the humpbacks again. We thought they where a little disturbed, according to the tail slaps they’ve made. We left the whales alone and went back to Zeballos. We’ve had a wonderful afternoon.
On our way to campground we’ve got warned about a black bear in the area. The bear was spotted on the bridge and went downstream at the right hand side of the river. The campground was on the left hand side, so we’ve got nothing to worry about. We walked to the campground and when we where back in our RV I saw the bear walking on the other side of the river. The river wasn’t that deep so we’ve had to be careful tonight. We decided to eat in a restaurant this evening and not to cook on the campsite with a bear in the neighborhood.
In the garden of the restaurant we spotted two garter snakes, probably mating.
Day 8 Friday September 9th
When we woke up this morning we saw the black bear from yesterday wandering over the campground. Fortunately it crossed the river to the other side.
After we’ve left Zeballos we saw another black bear on the logging road. It was a young one and probably just left by its mother. We went back to Port McNeil and camped on the Cluxewe Resort. The weather was wonderful today and this evening when we looked over the Broughton Strait, we saw a perfect sunset.
Day 9 Saturday September 10th
Today we left early, because we want to go to Cape Scott. The weather was beautiful. After a challenging ride we arrived save at the San Josef Herritage campground. Near Holberg we stopped at the shoe tree for some photos
At the campground we’ve met Doug. Doug managed the campground and was up here the whole year by itself for 16 years now. We promised him to send a postcard when we’re back home. We hiked the San Josef trail to the San Josef Bay. The Bay was absolutely beautiful. It was low tide so everything was accessible. Let the photos speak for them selves.
Day 10 Sunday September 11th
After we’ve left Cape Scott Prov. Park early in the morning, we spotted two black bears down the road. One bear crossed the road at about 100 meters in front of the RV and the second one walked along the riverbed near Holberg. We drove back to the Cluxewe Campground and enjoyed the day.
Day 11 Monday September 12th
Today we want to go to Naka Creek at Johnstone Strait. After highway 19 crossed Eve River we took the main loggin road headed for the coast. At about 15 kilometers we made a turn to the Naka Creek Main. This road was pretty bad, narrow and full of bear droppings. After 3 km there was a sign that the conditions of the road get worse. Here we decided to turn around. We never made it to Naka Creek. On our way back we spotted two Rooseveld Elk. One female with a young male. He hadn’t frayed is antlers yet, so he was probably only two years old. We camped in Sayward on the Fisherboy Park Campground.
Day 12 Tuesday September 13th
Back to Port McNeil! We left Sayward this morning and after a quick stop at Woss we went back to Port McNeil. In Woss from the bridge over the Nimpkish River, we saw six or seven Turkey Vultures, all sitting in a tree. In Port McNeil we walked along the harbor and there we saw a Black Tailed deer with two calves. She walked with her calves in the water talking a bath or so. At first we thought that she wants to cross the bay. When the calves lose their ground they quickly turned to shore.
We started this morning with a nice walk on the beach. It was low tide and may be we could spot a bear. There weren’t any bears on the beach today, but we saw a beautiful bold eagle in a tree. The eagle wasn’t shy at all and we could approach him until we where right under the tree. He just looks down at us, as we looked up at him.
We spend the rest of the day in Port Hardy and Port McNeil. Tomorrow we have to get up very early for a ferry ride to Prince Rupert
Day 14 Thursday September 15th The Inside Passage. It was pretty early this morning. Departure time for the ferry ride to Prince Rupert was at 07.30. The weather was beautiful. The sun was shining and there was almost no wind. At approximately nine o’clock it looks like a big surf was coming at us. I’ve never seen anything like that before. When we came closer the surf turned out to be a large group of Pacific Whitesided dolphins. The group consists of more then 200 individuals. They were feeding and because of the speed of the ferry we passed them very quickly. Our photo and video camera where inside. By the time I picked them up, we had passed the group. A half hour later we passed another, smaller group of dolphins. They where scattered all over the place.
In the Queen Charlotte Strait we’ve noticed several blows of different humpback whales. In total we saw 5 or 6 different whales.
After lunch we’ve met Leona and Rudi. We spend the afternoon together talking about Orca-Live and the whales.
Late afternoon we passed a humpback whale. It breaches more then 25 times. This one beats the record of the whale in Esperanza Inlet.
We arrived in Prince Rupert under a full moon at 10.30 PM and spend the night on a campground in Prince Rupert.
Day 15 Friday September 16th
Today we went whalewatching with Prince Rupert Adventure Tours. Our goal was to see humpback whales but we started with a group a 3 Transients! The group consists of 2 males and 1 females. This group was probalbly the T170 group. I have one positive ID of T170. The female was speeding with 12 knots.
Day 16 Saturday September 17th From Prince Rupert via Terrace to Lakelse Lake Provincial Park. About 35 km west of Terrace we saw a black bear. This was the 10th sighting of a black bear this journey. We drove trough Terrace and took highway 37 south to Kitimat. On the campground near Douglass Channel we’ve met a Canadian couple who invited us over to enjoy with them their fresh caught salmon. We’ve had a wonderful evening and Heinz told us were we could see grizzly bears. We have to take a little detour to Hyder Alaska. That is were we are going tomorrow.
Day 17 Sunday September 18th
North to Alaska
We took highway 37 north to Steward, near the border of Alaska. Highway 37 is also called the Glacier highway. The road through the Coast Mountains is beautiful. Just over the Alaskan border is Hyder. Just outside Hyder (there is one unpaved road) there is a spot called Fish Creek. Here we hope to see a Grizzly. It rained most of the day and when we arrived at 13.30 hours there where no bears. We are waiting. Sometimes the sun came trough the clouds and we saw a kingfisher and a few bold eagles. Suddenly at half past four a grizzly crossed the road and went to the creek. He walked slowly besides the creek until he spotted a salmon. A big splash and a second later he came out the creek with a big salmon in his mouth. He left the site, crossed the road and disappears in the woods. The bear was there for only two minutes but it was worth waiting for.
We crossed the border back to Canada and camped on a campground in Steward. It was raining hard. Was this the “big rain” where all the salmon in the Ocean was waiting for?
Day 18 Monday September 19th
Today it was a traveling day. From Steward we drove south to highway 16 and further east to Vanderhoof, where we spend the night. We saw no wildlife today.
Day 19 Tuesday September 20th
From Vandrhoof to Lillooet. Again a long drive. Just after we left the campground in Vanderhoof, a fox crossed the road. Later that day in the suburbs of Prince George, we saw another fox crossing the highway.
Day 20 Wednesday September 21st
From Lillooet we took the Duffy Lake road to Whistler. Near Lillooet we stopped by a small creek with lots of salmon. I didn’t recognize the species. Maybe someone can help here.
The Duffy Lake Road is a wonderful scenic route.
In Whistler we took the cable lift to mount Whistler. On the mountain we enjoyed the scenery and hiked a nice trail.
Day 21 Thursday September 22nd
Today we drove further down to Vancouver. It was our final day. Our goal was to go to Stevendson and maybe we could go out whale watching. It was a beautiful sunny day. We arrived in Stevendson just on time and there where two spots left for us. We had a scenic trip through the Gulf Islands and we saw a family river otters. Unfortunately the Southern Residents where to far out to the west. So we saw no orcas today. We did find some seals and sea lions. It was the first day this season they spotted sea lions. We enjoyed the trip very much and because we didn’t see any whales, we can go the next time for free!
Day 22 Friday September 23rd
Today we returned our RV to Cruise Canada and went to the airport. Our flight home left at 1500 hours PDT and we arrived in Amsterdam on Saturday morning at 11 o’clock. We had a wonderful time in BC, where we’ve met great people and experienced a wonderful hospitality. Thanks
